This article first appeared in Santé Magazine on July 21st, 2025
In Montalcino, the past and future of Brunello converge at one address: Biondi-Santi. The historic estate that defined a denomination continues to guide its evolution with remarkable grace.
In the world of fine wine, a handful of names transcend trends and vintages to become monuments – carved into the very identity of a region. Biondi-Santi is one of those names. Perched on the rolling hills of Montalcino, in southern Tuscany, the estate is not merely a historic producer of Brunello di Montalcino—it is its founding father, its stylistic compass, and, even now, its most revered steward.
Today, as Biondi-Santi releases its latest vintage expressions—the 2022 Rosso di Montalcino, the 2019 Brunello, and the 2018 Brunello Riserva—the wines serve not only as beautiful artifacts of their respective years, but as a living testament to the estate’s unshakable values: restraint, longevity, and a deep-rooted sense of place.
A Winery That Changed Italian Wine Forever
The history of Biondi-Santi is inseparable from the history of Brunello di Montalcino itself. In the mid-19th century, Clemente Santi—an agronomist and pharmacist—began isolating and experimenting with a particularly robust clone of Sangiovese on his family’s estate in Montalcino. In 1865, he produced a wine labeled vino scelto, a 100% Sangiovese that stunned judges at the Agricultural Fair of Montepulciano.
But it was his grandson, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, who, in 1888, bottled the first Brunello di Montalcino—a bold decision in a time when long-aging red wines were virtually unheard of in central Italy. He aged his wine for over a decade in large neutral oak and sealed the bottles in wax. The result was revolutionary: a wine of structure, longevity, and unparalleled finesse. A new category of wine was born.
Throughout the 20th century, Brunello di Montalcino was a one-estate show. Biondi-Santi was the lone producer bottling Brunello for decades. Only in the 1960s did a handful of others begin to follow suit, and by 1980, Brunello was granted DOCG status—Italy’s highest classification—largely on the shoulders of Biondi-Santi’s pioneering efforts.
The estate’s wines, particularly its Riserva bottlings, have achieved cult status. Some bottles from the 1955 vintage have aged more than 60 years and are still vibrant today. Franco Biondi-Santi, Ferruccio’s grandson and the patriarch of the modern era, carried the torch with stoic dedication to traditional methods—wild yeast fermentations, long cask aging, no barriques, no shortcuts.
The Soul of Montalcino, Then and Now
To speak of Biondi-Santi is to speak of Montalcino’s identity. The estate’s deep understanding of its vineyards—centered around the famed Il Greppo estate—has defined the stylistic core of Brunello: wines of ethereal perfume, structured yet elegant, built to age, and never over-extracted.
In many ways, Biondi-Santi has served as both a lighthouse and an anchor. Even as the region modernized—with new producers, international investment, and a broadening stylistic range—Biondi-Santi held its ground. Its adherence to native yeast, large Slavonian casks, and a restrained aesthetic provided a standard of authenticity that grounded the region’s evolution.
Today, that legacy continues—though with a refreshed outlook. CEO Giampiero Bertolini, a veteran of Frescobaldi, and Technical Director Federico Radi have introduced precision viticulture, site-specific mapping, and adaptive practices for a changing climate—all while preserving the house’s soul.
The New 2025 Releases: Tradition with a Modern Sensibility
Rosso di Montalcino 2022
Made from the estate’s younger vines, the Rosso is an early-drinking wine, but at Biondi-Santi, even the Rosso is treated with seriousness. The 2022 vintage offers fresh red berries, delicate floral notes, and a silky palate marked by lifted acidity. It’s vibrant and precise—a wine that speaks clearly of its terroir but offers immediate pleasure.
Brunello di Montalcino 2019
The 2019 Brunello is already being called a modern classic. A nearly textbook growing season—with even ripening, modest temperatures, and well-timed rainfall—yielded fruit of exceptional balance. The wine is graceful and poised, with notes of sour cherry, dried rose, graphite, and wild herbs. Tannins are fine and persistent, framing a wine that will age beautifully for decades.
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2018
The Riserva is only produced in the most suitable years, and the 2018 was far from easy. A cooler, wetter growing season led to increased disease pressure and required fastidious vineyard work. Only the oldest and healthiest vines made the cut.
The result? A wine of quiet power. Aromas of black tea, dried cranberry, and forest floor give way to a long, mineral-driven finish. It is a Riserva of nuance and grace—less about raw power, more about inner tension and poise.
The Future of a Legacy
More than 150 years after Ferruccio Biondi-Santi bottled the first Brunello, the estate remains the guiding force of Montalcino. But it is not resting on history. The current team is engaged in a multi-year replanting project using massal selection from its oldest vines, along with canopy management strategies to adapt to rising temperatures. The winery is also transitioning toward organic farming, and investing in soil regeneration to ensure long-term vineyard health.
At a time when winemaking is increasingly shaped by climate volatility and market pressures, Biondi-Santi stands as a symbol of integrity. Its wines resist the flashiness of modern styles. They are measured, intellectual, and designed to age—much like the estate itself.
For collectors, Brunello lovers, and students of wine history, Biondi-Santi remains not just a reference point, but the wellspring. A producer whose past defines Montalcino—and whose future may shape it once again.
Stewardship for the Next Century
In a world obsessed with innovation, Biondi-Santi reminds us of the power of tradition. But more than that, it shows how tradition—when thoughtfully tended—can be a dynamic, living force. As it continues to refine and evolve, the estate’s wines remain what they’ve always been: elegant, enduring, and essential.
Hi! I’m Rupal.
Stunning wines!